Posted 04-03-2008
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Your Travel
by John Blair

Going down!

But watch that vine

It is not generally admitted in Vanuatu society, but women, whose existence is not even acknowledged in the local lingo, are (sometimes) smarter than men.

Take n'gol, the hair-raising land dive from a ramshackle bamboo tower which passes for fun - and a major tourist attraction on Vanuatu's Pentecost Island.

Folklore has it the origin of the death-defying 25-metre leap of faith was when a local woman, fleeing an abusive husband sought refuge up a huge tree. And when her husband came to bring her down she leapt from the tree. He followed without knowing the resourceful wife had tied a vine to her ankle, braking her fall before hitting the ground. Debate continues whether n'gol is the forerunner of bungy jumping where the leg “rope” is a hi-tech product (said to be) more reliable than a stretchy vine.

It goes on, on Pentecost, still, bringing spectators from around the world, usually in the April, May, June quarter. But since it is such a high-demand event, early booking is essential.

For the locals it is a big dollar earner and a ritual of ensuring good crops of yams and boys being initiated into the adult world, all in one.

“It is unique amongst primitive societies,” says Vanuatu publicist David Ellis.

The Pentecost men spend five weeks separated from females on the island while they build their tower. A successful dive is when they scrape the ground with their hands and foreheads, just short of splat, which is the signal for the womenfolk to chant, sing and stamp around. It is not clear whether this is out of joy at having their men back in one piece, or in anticipation of yams galore. The dive is shorter for boys becoming men.

Talk to your friendly travel agent about making the n'gol experience part of your holiday in Vanuatu. You'll need a domestic flight from Port Vila to Pentecost, a couple of nights accommodation, a guide and entry to the dive site, all neatly packaged by local operators for around $500 and worth every cent.

Whet your appetite further with a visit to www.vanuatutourism.com

 

John Blair is a world-travelled journalist who has worked in Europe and Asia. An authority on southeast Asian politics and tourism, he is also a past winner of a Thailand government award for best foreign media travel coverage.

 

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